Victorian Vanities - Cold Cream

If your following my blog day to day, you might find it odd to see a post on cold cream right after a post on choosing a design for a new bed, but it takes time to decide, plus I have a cold and until it's gone, I don't foresee "getting my build on".  So to honor said cold in hopes it passes quickly here's a bit about cold creams.  

Origins

Cold creams can be traced back to ancient Rome where they are believed to have their roots with Greek Physician, Galen of Pergamon around 150 A.D. The first cold creams were created by melting olive oil and beeswax together, then adding water when nearly cool and whipping the bejeezus out of it.  

This concoction  had a short shelf life, it was prone to separation, and the oil went rancid with time.  By the early Victorian times, this formula had changed only slightly replacing the olive oil with almond oil, and the water with rosewater.  The cold cream smelled nicer, but still had a short shelf life. 

 Uses

Cold creams were used as moisturizer, face pack, cleanser, balm, and even as a shaving cream (by men).  In the 1940's they served as a primer/adhesive for facial powders, and are still popular with many women today. 

Why Call it "Cold" Cream?

When applied to the skin, the water evaporates giving a cooling sensation.  This cooling sensation is one possible explanation for why we call this concoction cold cream.  Another possibility is that the name comes from the cream being kept in cold or cool storage to prolong it's shelf life.   

Advancements

In 1876, Vaseline(introduced in 1870) made it's way into some cold creams replacing the almond oil and creating cold creams that were cheaper and would not go rancid.

In 1883 Adoph Vomack introduces a formula with borax.  The borax worked with the beeswax to form an emulsion that would not separate, even if oil was used instead of Vaseline.  These borax beeswax creams were slightly pearlescent which many Victorians took as a sign of quality.  

In 1890 we see the first commercial cold cream that contains both Vaseline and borax.

Examples/Recipes

This is a traditional almond oil, beeswax, and rose water cold cream created from a recipe found on p. 233 of The Druggist's General Receipt Book by Henry Beasley printed in 1878.

This reciept/recipe calls for:

4 parts almond oil

1 part white wax (beeswax with scent and color removed) 

3 parts rose water.  

The resulting cold cream smells and feels amazing.  I find that the beeswax help protect my hands in the winter when they are prone to chapping from frequent washing.  In the picture below, you might be able to see the downside of this formula.  less than one month after creation, even stored in ideal conditions, droplets of water are starting to separate out.  In a previous recipe, I added a small amount of borax to this recipe and the cream remained intact for nearly 2 years, even though the oil had begun to smell less than fresh.

The Vaseline cold cream below was made from a recipe on p. 170 of The Era Formulary written by D.O. Haynes and printed in 1893.

The recipe(#1842) calls for:

  75 parts white wax

  75 parts spermaceti* 

450 parts almond oil

200 parts Vaseline

200 parts water

  10 parts borax

       perfume q.s. (as needed)

*( I use Jojoba oil as it is the closest readily available substitute)

This recipe is very stable including both borax and Vaseline.  It is easy to make and feels great, but I do think I prefer the previous recipe freshly made or with borax added.

Want to DIY Some Cold Cream?

• Check out the books I've mentioned above.  They both have recipes for other cold cream variations listed on the same pages as the recipes I've given.
• Melt your wax and fats/oils together slowly in a double boiler set up.  Remove from the heat and slowly add the water while mixing with a hand held electric mixer.  Originally, this beating was done by hand and took a very long time.  Using a hand mixer gets the job done quicker and you end up with a very uniform product.
• As with all cosmetics, try and use at your own risk.  Please remember common perfuming oils like orange, bergamot, and lemon are photo sensitizing (they will increase you risk of sunburn where applied)

If you DIY your own cold cream, please leave me a comment and/or picture and let me know how it turns out.

1927 Singer Model 66 Restoration Pt.1 - Meet Freddie Mae

This is Freddie Mae, my new Singer model 66.

She was born in 1927, and like many of her generation, she's showing her age.

Her backside isn't as nice to look at, as it once was.

But before time took it's toll, they say she was a beauty.

These days her joints squeak and she's a bit stiff, especially on cold days.

She's got spots and scars from a life well lived.

and some of the parts she came into this world with, are long gone. 

Still even after all these years she still has a heart of gold. 

Next Pt. 2 - Freddie Mae Gets a Face Lift

a.k.a cleaning the face plate and everything behind it.

Pumpkin Planter How to

Need a long lasting splash of color for your fall gatherings, but don't want to spend big bucks on a fussy arrangement from a florist that is just going to wilt and die after a few days?

 For about $5, and 10 minutes, this little cutie pie is easy on your eyes and your wallet.  And in my experience, can last up to a month inside or on a patio.

Step 1 Decide if you want to use a plastic liner(juice bottle).  

The benefit to using a liner, is that if you need the arrangement before Halloween, but not after, you can actually remove the liner and plant leaving a carve-able pumpkin shell, and a plant for your garden. 

However, by not using a liner, when the planter has severed it's purpose you can move it to the garden and plant it pumpkin shell and all.  The shell will compost and enrich the soil, while the flowers will continue to thrive (weather and climate permitting)

Step 2  Mark and Cut the opening.

If you are using a plastic bottle, go ahead and cut the bottle in half about  1 inch shorter than your pumpkin, and use the top section as a guide to mark the opening.  Without a plastic bottle, cut your hole at least as big as the root mass of the plant your using.

Step 3  Scoop out the guts.  

(optional)

If you are using the plastic bottle, slide it into the pumpkin and trim the top edge so it is flush with the pumpkin.

Step 4  Add the plant.  
Add extra dirt if needed so the plant is secure within the pumpkin shell, or plastic bottle.

Step 5 Water and admire.

Makes a sweet centerpiece, or add a few sticks and use it to display wares at fall craft shows.  It also makes fabulous Halloween decor adorned with "shrunken"  apple heads and "zombies".

Pictures from the Fall 2013 Southland Flywheelers Show

Back in early October, I attended the Southland Flywheelers 2013 Fall Tractor Show and History Expo as a demonstrator of:  

I took several items for display like Apple Doll Magnets,

 Witch Pins, and Shrunken Heads.

I also brought a few dolls.

 The lady in blue is Mary.  The fellow with her is Abraham.  They both have painted, sealed faces, with pose-able bodies and hands.  Martha, (seated in the front) has a soft body and an unsealed face, like most traditional Apple dolls.  Over time, her face will oxidize and darken to black.

This little lady had a name, but was sold/bartered, almost as soon as she was set out, to a fellow demonstrator, who was happy to let me keep her on display til the end of the day.

Speaking of other demonstrators, we didn't have as many this year, but the ones that came were great.  There was a blacksmith, cabinet maker, spinners, dyers, and a chair caner.

 This is Lou Ann Poole, a sweet and spirited person I'm proud to call friend.  

She is one of those amazing women who can and does do, just about everything.  She and her husband Mark even built a log cabin in their back yard to practice open hearth cooking.  For this event, she demonstrated chair caning.

Another dear friend of mine, is Master Cabinet Maker Christopher Lang.He received training in Williamsburg and has since worn many hats from historical interpreter, to curator, to furniture restorer, to stay at home dad.  No matter what his current title, his skills and tools are always kept sharp.  If you need an antique restored, he is the go to guy in the area.  

  This gorgeous hand made cherry sewing box will be mine in the very near future as payment for a set of historical clothing I made for his daughter.  There is a divided tray(not shown) that sits in the sewing box.  I had the opportunity at this event to choose the layout of the dividers and am so excited to see how it will turn out.
* Update 1-6-14:  The box is now finished and in my possession.  You can see pictures here.  

  

Other presenters and their displays:  

Spinners

Dyers 

 Blacksmith

How to Paint Your Apple Doll's Face

Once you have carved your apple doll, let it dry and given it eyes, you must decide how to finish it.  You have the option of leaving it natural, sealing it without painting, or painting and sealing it.  

How to Give Your Apple Doll Bead Eyes

After carving your Apple Head and letting it dry, you can add beads for eyes and paint it to give it more character. You can also use apple seeds, in the same way.  For dolls that I sell, I make polymer clay eyes that are inserted in a similar way after the Apple Head has been painted and sealed, using glue behind the eye to secure it. 

MATERIALS

sharp knife, acrylic paint, paint brush, sealant, beads

Use a sharp knife to cut a tiny horizontal slit where each eye will be.  Next, create a cavity by using the end of the paintbrush to make the slit more open and round.

Paint the inside of the cavity with white paint.

Insert a bead into the cavity.  Use the end of the paintbrush to move the bead into position.

Apply a big glob of sealant to each eye to lock the beads in place.

Optional:  use paint to change the color of the iris/bead.  You can also use black paint to paint the inside of the bead/pupil.

Be Sure to see all of my other Apple Doll Tutorials

How to Carve Apple Heads

How to Paint Your Apple Doll's Face 

How to Carve an Apple Head

Materials and Tools

Apples

Salt and Lemon Juice 

(or other fruit preservative like "Fruit Fresh")

Sharp Knife, Bowl to Soak Apples

Tips

• You could use just about any kind of apple in a pinch, but you'll have an easier time and get the best results if you use a Granny Smith. 
• Choose a sharp knife that is easy to handle and be careful. I use a paring knife for peeling and general shaping, but switch to a small pocket knife or potters tools for facial features.
• Leave any "type A"/perfectionist personality traits at the door.  You can guide the shape and features of your apple head, but you can not control them.  Even if you carve a perfectly symmetrical face, it might dry contorted and misshapen.  Alternately you might carve a hideous face only to have it dry into a cute and kindly character.  Every apple is different and it's own unique internal structure will determine the finished product. 

1.  Peel the apple. 

I use a regular kitchen paring knife for this step, and have been known to leave the stem and skin around the stem indentation intact to show disbelievers that yes it is an apple.  My daughter says it looks like a belly button.
If you want your head to have a neck, go ahead and shape that now.

2.  Layout the Features.

If you are artistic by nature go ahead and wing it when it comes to laying out your face and carving.  Have fun, be creative and when you've finished carving continue to Step 4.

If "winging it" is outside your comfort zone, mark the basic shape and placement of features onto the apple.  Do this by "drawing" on the apple with with your knife, toothpick or skewer.  (Since the dolls I carve are "character" dolls, I don't worry about perfect anatomical proportion.  Besides, the drying process would likely undo all my hard work if I did.) 

3.  Carve the Features.

Use whatever process works for you.  If you not sure where to begin, try the method below. Remember your mistakes taste great with a sprinkle of cinnamon and sugar.  They'll also make a fabulous pie.

• Start with the eyes.  Carve a divot where the eye will go under the brow and beside the nose. The technique I use to cut the eye area is to insert the tip of the knife at the corner next to the nose and keeping the tip in one spot, I sweep the blade around in a circular motion.  This creates the initial shape of the eyebrow, bridge, and top of the cheek. 
• Define the nose and upper lip by cutting a little wedge from under the nose.  If you want a more rounded nose, go ahead and cut off the corners you just created.
• Shape the cheeks by cutting away small wedges from the bottom corner of the nose, out towards the corner of the mouth.  This along with the shape of the eyebrows helps create the expression.  If this line is straight up and down your lady or gent will seem sad, upset, or surprised if you add an open mouth.  Angle the lines higher, like a clock hands pointing to 4:00 and 8:00 and curve it upward to follow rounded cheeks, and you'll have a much happier doll.
• Refine the features, 
• Optional: Add ears by cutting wedges from behind, above and below the ear. Most of my doll heads do not have ears.  They are tricky to carve and the drying process always distorts them.

4.  Soak

Make a strong solution of Fruit Fresh and water, or use a cup of lemon juice with 1 T salt.  Soak your apple for a minute or so. 

5.  Dry

Method 1  Hang until dry for 1-2 weeks in a warm dry spot out of direct sunlight, and watch as your plump round apple face shrinks and wrinkles into a little old lady or gent.  If you are in a hurry, or live in an area with high humidity, try method 2 or 3 below.
         
Method 2  Use a food dehydrator. A dehydrator gives the most consistent results.
        
Method 3  Use your oven. (not ideal, but does work most of the time)

How I used to "shrink" heads in the oven.  

Place apples on a wooden board in your oven set to 170 or less for 3-6 hrs.  If you place the apples on a baking sheet, it increases the chance they will cook, if you place them on a wire rack, you'll be left with unsightly marks from the rack.  Check the apples and board frequently the first drying to make sure your oven doesn't run hot.  You don't want baked apples or a fire.  Turn off the oven.  The next day, turn the oven back on 170 for 3-6 hours checking every hour or so.  Let cool.  Repeat the process until apples are dry, but still have some give.  If they get too dry, they will break.

What's Next?

How to Give Your Apple Head Eyes

Painting Your Apple Head's Face

Pictures added for Project 4: Waxed Paper Mobile

Go here to see the tutorial and scroll down to see the finished mobiles as well as a portion of the mural in my daughters Koi and Dragon themed room.

Project 4 pt. 2: Kid's Mobile Frame Tutorial

Be sure to check out Project 4: Kids Mobiles (pt. 1)  if you missed it.

Materials for Frame

• Metal Rings in Various Sizes
• 2 pieces Strong Cord, Thread, etc. 
• Scissors
• Glue (optional)
• Key Chain Ring or Other Small Metal Ring for Hanging (optional)

To Make Mobile Frame
I used 3 different  macrame knots/stitches: Larks Head, Vertical Larks Head, and Overhand.  If you aren't familiar with these, and want to try them there is a nice tutorial by Dorothy Hoeschenn for basic macrame stitches at Stonebrash Creative Arts.

Project 4: Waxed Paper Mobiles (pt. 1)

 Last week was Spring Break here in Alabama.  With the kids home for a few days, it was the perfect time to  start a project for their rooms.  A while back, I stumbled across several mobiles, on Pintrest, made of two or more sheets of waxed paper with crayon shavings melted between them.  The process is super simple and the resulting mobiles are impressive.  I'm sure better tutorials are out there, but this is how we did it.

A Tree with a View

Into the past that is. 

I thought I'd take one of my very few spare moments to share this family tree I recently made as a Christmas gift for my Mother-in-law.

Genealogy fascinates me and I have always loved the idea of having a family tree hanging on the wall or tucked into a leather bound book.   However, my penmanship is atrocious, and I have a very difficult time trying to figure out how to fit all those names onto a page in a way that makes sense and doesn't make my eyes cross.  So, I have kept my family tree, and my husband's online with  Ancestry.com.  While I am a huge fan of the site, I have never lost that yearning for something more artistic, something that wouldn't be limited by a 2 dimensional computer screen.

 At a glance, I wanted to know where the person lived, when they were born, when they died, and when they married.  I wanted it to be easy to decipher, not make me go cross eyed, and fit into a reasonable amount of space.  

And, wouldn't it be cool if it could be a kind of sculptural art piece that could be added to easily should the tree bear more fruit.

I knew my in-laws would appreciate just such a tree, and I needed a really good gift for my Mother-in-law.  So, I hit the craft store and came up with the following plan:

 -Each side of the tree (mother-in -law and father-in-law) would have a slightly different color scheme to distinguish it's members.

-Men would be leaves, women flowers, and the grandchildren would be apples.

-Names and dates would appear on the front, and places on the back so that if curiosity struck, one could open the shadow box and gently turn the leaf to see the back. 

-Marriage dates would get their own little leaf that could be placed in the fork created by a married couple.

-In the instance of a couple, the woman would be on the right side, men on the left and any children they had would follow the same pattern, with sons on the left and daughters on the right.

I gathered my supplies, printed out all the necessary info and started punching, gluing and assembling.

Assorted papers, punches, floral wire and my new favorite,
"quick grab" tacky glue.

 After printing all the information onto card stock and punching
out the shapes, I glued the wire between the layers.   

  I added a third accent layer in the middle
 for the flowers to give the project a little
more color .

Florist wire seemed best for the trunk and branches.  At first, as you'll see in some of the pictures, I used regular florist wire and wrapped it with floral tape.  When I finished the project, it looked too plastic-y , so I carefully removed all the leaves and flowers and re-glued them to a cloth wrapped wire for the branches and  a heavier wire wrapped with jute for the trunk and larger boughs.  

To cover any unsightly joins,
I unwrapped the cloth/jute the glued
 it back into place in such a way
that it would hide the wires.

I worked my way from  oldest to newest ancestors forming smaller groups that could
be twisted together.  This is the back side before I switched the wire.

To prepare the shadowbox for mounting, I placed a layer of batting onto the board, covered it with my fabric, and very carefully hot glued the fabric to edges making sure I stretched it evenly as I went.

I attached the tree I using heavy duty craft thread to tack it down securely at the base of the trunk and any other points that seemed to need support.

This is how it looked after I changed the wire and mounted it, before it was put into the frame.

Should my Sister-in-law choose to have more children, it would be quite easy to add another apple.  Hear that sis?  I'm ready for ya!

Now if only I was ready to make another one of these for myself.