Free Storage Stairs Plans for a Loft Bed

*BTW, I've made these plans available on Ana White's website.  You can find them at
http://ana-white.com/2013/05/plans/storage-stairs-bunk-or-loft-bed

A few people have asked about the steps I built a while back for my boy's room at the old house.  At the time, I built the loft bed from Ana White's plan with minor modifications.  However, I couldn't find plans that I liked for the stairs.  At least not free ones.  So with no experience, I drafted a set built them and couldn't be happier with how they turned out.

I love these stairs!  And why wouldn't I?

They have: 

• 2 deep compartments which can store toys or extra bed linens
• a shallow compartment in the top step that is perfect for treasures or those large flat books
• a small shelf under the middle stair that fits a rolled up sleeping bag perfectly.
• a large cubby under the top step that can be used as a crawl through, suitcase storage, could be divided into smaller cubbies or could have doors attached.  

Over a year later these storage stairs are still holding together beautifully even after the move.  Now, it is time to share the plans with you for free.  

The usual caveats apply.  I am no expert, build at your own risk and work carefully.  By building these plans you assume all risks and release me from any liability. I do not guarantee them in any way.  With that said, if you still want to try the plans I'd love to see and hear how your project turns out.  You can let me know in the comments section below.

Finished Dimensions:
34 5/8" H x 20" W x 42" D

Materials:

1x3 

3/4 plywood (I used Purebond)

Kreg Jig and 1 1/4  pocket screws

3 sets of hinges

Tools:

Table saw/ circular saw

tape measure

screwdriver

drill

pencil

Cut List:

3 - 1x3 @ 20 (tread brace of 3 steps)

4 - 10 3/4 x 10 3/4 (sides of bottom 2 steps)

2 - 5 3/4 x 17 1/2 (sides of top step)

2 - 20 x 9 1/2 (treads of bottom  and middle steps)

1 - 20 x 16 3/4 (tread of top step)

3 - 20 x 10 3/4 (front of bottom step, shelf and base of middle step)

1 - 20 x 22.5 (front of middle step)

2 - 20 x 33 7/8 (front and back of top step)

1 - 10 3/4 x 18.5 (bottom step base)

1 - 20 x 17 1/2 (top step base)

1 - 17 1/2 x 18 1/2 ( top step compartment base)

Step 1

• Attach sides of the bottom step to the front of the bottom step from the inside with pocket screws.
• Attach bottom step base from underneath with pocket screws.

Step 2

• Attach sides of the middle step to the shelf of the middle step with pocket hole screws from the inside of the step.
• Attach front of middle step from the inside with pocket screws.
• Attach bottom step base from underneath with pocket screws.

Step 3

•  Attach sides of the top step to top shelf compartment base with pocket hole screws from the inside of the step.

• Attach front and back of top step from the inside with pocket screws.
• Attach the top step base from underneath with pocket screws. (although the top step base is shown in the same color it is NOT the same size as the top shelf compartment base.

Step 4

•  Join bottom to the middle with pocket screws, then middle to top in a similar fashion. I chose not to glue the top step to the middle step so I could take them apart to move them.  

Step 5

• Add 1 x 3 tread braces to each step. Again, I used pocket holes screwed from the inside.  It would be easier to just screw down from the top.

Step 6

• Attach the stair treads to each stair with hinges.

Step 7

• Finish as desired.
• Be sure to securely attach the stair to your bunk or loft bed.  I recommend placing the stairs between the wall and the bed or adding a stair rail, especially with younger kids.

Good Luck!

I now have free plans for :  
stairs
and railing.  

To find the free plans and how to connect the finished parts please visit my post Storage Stair System for Bunk/Loft Beds.

Please check out all of my  DIY projects and free plans!

How to Carve an Apple Head

Materials and Tools

Apples

Salt and Lemon Juice 

(or other fruit preservative like "Fruit Fresh")

Sharp Knife, Bowl to Soak Apples

Tips

• You could use just about any kind of apple in a pinch, but you'll have an easier time and get the best results if you use a Granny Smith. 
• Choose a sharp knife that is easy to handle and be careful. I use a paring knife for peeling and general shaping, but switch to a small pocket knife or potters tools for facial features.
• Leave any "type A"/perfectionist personality traits at the door.  You can guide the shape and features of your apple head, but you can not control them.  Even if you carve a perfectly symmetrical face, it might dry contorted and misshapen.  Alternately you might carve a hideous face only to have it dry into a cute and kindly character.  Every apple is different and it's own unique internal structure will determine the finished product. 

1.  Peel the apple. 

I use a regular kitchen paring knife for this step, and have been known to leave the stem and skin around the stem indentation intact to show disbelievers that yes it is an apple.  My daughter says it looks like a belly button.
If you want your head to have a neck, go ahead and shape that now.

2.  Layout the Features.

If you are artistic by nature go ahead and wing it when it comes to laying out your face and carving.  Have fun, be creative and when you've finished carving continue to Step 4.

If "winging it" is outside your comfort zone, mark the basic shape and placement of features onto the apple.  Do this by "drawing" on the apple with with your knife, toothpick or skewer.  (Since the dolls I carve are "character" dolls, I don't worry about perfect anatomical proportion.  Besides, the drying process would likely undo all my hard work if I did.) 

3.  Carve the Features.

Use whatever process works for you.  If you not sure where to begin, try the method below. Remember your mistakes taste great with a sprinkle of cinnamon and sugar.  They'll also make a fabulous pie.

• Start with the eyes.  Carve a divot where the eye will go under the brow and beside the nose. The technique I use to cut the eye area is to insert the tip of the knife at the corner next to the nose and keeping the tip in one spot, I sweep the blade around in a circular motion.  This creates the initial shape of the eyebrow, bridge, and top of the cheek. 
• Define the nose and upper lip by cutting a little wedge from under the nose.  If you want a more rounded nose, go ahead and cut off the corners you just created.
• Shape the cheeks by cutting away small wedges from the bottom corner of the nose, out towards the corner of the mouth.  This along with the shape of the eyebrows helps create the expression.  If this line is straight up and down your lady or gent will seem sad, upset, or surprised if you add an open mouth.  Angle the lines higher, like a clock hands pointing to 4:00 and 8:00 and curve it upward to follow rounded cheeks, and you'll have a much happier doll.
• Refine the features, 
• Optional: Add ears by cutting wedges from behind, above and below the ear. Most of my doll heads do not have ears.  They are tricky to carve and the drying process always distorts them.

4.  Soak

Make a strong solution of Fruit Fresh and water, or use a cup of lemon juice with 1 T salt.  Soak your apple for a minute or so. 

5.  Dry

Method 1  Hang until dry for 1-2 weeks in a warm dry spot out of direct sunlight, and watch as your plump round apple face shrinks and wrinkles into a little old lady or gent.  If you are in a hurry, or live in an area with high humidity, try method 2 or 3 below.
         
Method 2  Use a food dehydrator. A dehydrator gives the most consistent results.
        
Method 3  Use your oven. (not ideal, but does work most of the time)

How I used to "shrink" heads in the oven.  

Place apples on a wooden board in your oven set to 170 or less for 3-6 hrs.  If you place the apples on a baking sheet, it increases the chance they will cook, if you place them on a wire rack, you'll be left with unsightly marks from the rack.  Check the apples and board frequently the first drying to make sure your oven doesn't run hot.  You don't want baked apples or a fire.  Turn off the oven.  The next day, turn the oven back on 170 for 3-6 hours checking every hour or so.  Let cool.  Repeat the process until apples are dry, but still have some give.  If they get too dry, they will break.

What's Next?

How to Give Your Apple Head Eyes

Painting Your Apple Head's Face

Pictures added for Project 4: Waxed Paper Mobile

Go here to see the tutorial and scroll down to see the finished mobiles as well as a portion of the mural in my daughters Koi and Dragon themed room.